Colombia Part One: Bogotá Redeemed

When I arrived in Bogotá, I arrived with a lot of skepticism.

Not only was Remote Year shutting down the city from its itineraries, we had also heard a lot of negative feedback from other remotes: “Bogotá is just another big city.” “It’s nice but there’s nothing really interesting about it.” “Did you hear that half of the people in that one Remote Year group got their phones stolen?”

But immediately upon arriving, Bogotá made it very easy for me to feel comfortable. And as I have come to learn, the way I have measured how much I enjoy a particular city is by how quickly I can fall into a routine. And in Bogotá, it happened almost overnight. It was hard for me to understand why it garnered so much negative feedback and so, I find myself wanting to champion this city and share all the reasons why I enjoyed my time in Bogotá.

La Candelaria

La Candelaria is the historic center of Bogotá, filled with the country’s prized museums, government palaces and beautiful colonial buildings that run along the narrow cobblestone streets. Book a tour with Beyond Colombia: Let them help you get acquainted with the history and let them take you through all the must-see sights and sounds and smells of the city.

Book a Graffiti Tour to learn more about all the beautiful artwork created by both international and Colombian artists or you also can roam around the city and admire them yourself (which is what I did). Similar to the graffiti culture that we’ve seen in Lisbon, Belgrade and Lima, graffiti in Bogotá is more about shedding light on political and social issues and bringing the community closer together. Colombia has been the victim of violence for many years and in its resurgence many people have used art to ignite conversations about rebuilding the country’s image without forgetting the past.

While you’re here, make a point to visit one of my favorite sights in La Candelaria: the iconic Santuario Nacional de Nuestra Señora del Carmen. In a neighborhood full of Spanish colonial influence, this Gothic-style church, adorned with Byzantine and Arabic art stands out amongst the architecture in the city, in its height and its color. I just love the candy cane stripes that decorates both the exterior as well as the interior of the building.

Yuan Yuan was kind enough to visit me in Bogotá from Taiwan for a whole week! Here is a photo of us on one of the stops during our walking tour drinking chica. Every South American country and even every region within each country has a slightly different version of this popular indigenous drink made of corn, which is fermented and mixed with some type of sweetener, usually sugar or honey.

Interestingly enough, the Bank of the Republic, or the Banco de la República, runs a culture-preservation program, which funds museums, public spaces and even a few scholarships so that the public, irregardless of wealth or poor, can enjoy and learn about their national treasures. This is the reason why many of the museums you’ll visit in Colombia will not have an entrance fee of any kind. How many of us can say that treasuries in our own respective countries provide that kind of benefit?

And so, Yuan Yuan asked if we could visit a few during her time in Bogotá. And while she adores and enjoys museums, I’m less enthused unless they are paintings during very specific time periods, namely from the 1400s to the early 1900s from renaissance to romanticism. Because pretty much anything after that, I have little idea what I’m looking at and therefore, have less of an appreciation for it (with the exception of some Picasso, Degas, and Chagall because for some reason their artwork resonated with me more strongly than other impressionists and modern artists).

So while I found the Gold Museum a bit boring (although my amazing talented friend, Loren would absolutely love it because she is an amazing jeweler of high karat gold), I still had fun meandering the museum, finding my favorite pieces amongst each exhibition. My favorite piece of the day was of this little guy on my left.

However, perhaps the most historically significant piece in the entire museum is the Muisca raft, also referred to as the El Dorado Raft. The figure depicts the popular legend of El Dorado, a place that is said to have immeasurable gold and riches. The legend actually comes from the ceremony el dorado: when a new chief rises to power, everyone gathers on Lake Guatavita and tons of precious gold and jewels are thrown in the lake as an offering to the gods. It was then believed that if these “lowly indigenous creatures” were throwing priceless pieces of gold into the river, the riches must have come from somewhere. Countless explorers, Sir Walter Raleigh included, have all tried to find this city of gold but none ever did.

The second museum Yuan Yuan and I visited is a must-see whilst in Bogotá: Botero Museum. It is named after Colombian artist Fernando Botero who donated his entire collection, which includes his own works of art and those of others, all to the Bank of the Republic in 2000, with the caveat that the museum be made free for the public. Enjoy the different rooms of Botero’s artwork as you walk through this beautiful traditional Spanish courtyard.

Fernando Botero’s artwork is very unique and therefore very recognizable. When most of the artists of his time dove into surrealism, he chose to do caricatures and figurative art, displaying people in large, exaggerated proportions, a style that has come to known as “Boterismo.” He is one of the most recognized artist from Latin America and his art can be found all over the world, including “Mona Lisa, Age 12” in the photo below. Botero is 87 years old today and still continues to paint.

And of course, enjoy the hustle and bustle of Bolivar Square, one of the biggest highlights in Candelaria. Surrounding the square is the Palace of Justice on the northern edge and the National Capital on the south, with a palace and a cathedral making the remaining two sides. It is always crowded and full of people (and pigeons) but enjoy this gathering of tourists, vendors and locals alike.

Now, as for food and drinks options…. Unfortunately most of the places are super touristy and way overpriced, but I found a few options that are really yummy, affordable and (I think) brings you closer to the Colombian culture.

First stop: I recommend heading to Azahar Cafe for some breakfast and coffee. Their avocado toast is absolutely divine (at a fraction of NYC prices) and their coffee is one of the best. Better yet, if you’re looking to buy souvenirs, I would recommend picking up a few bags of coffee beans here. To top it all off, they also have fast, reliable and free WiFi, perfect for getting some work done.

But for the real coffee connoisseurs, make a stop at Arte y Pasión just a few minutes from Simon Bolivar Square. These folks really take their coffee seriously! Around lunch time, you’ll see tons of business men and women cycle in and out for a cup of coffee and talk about their day at the office. Grab a seat and enjoy all the comings and goings of both tourists and locals. The coffee menu is slightly overwhelming so feel free to ask for a recommendation. Personally, you can’t go wrong with a local colombian single origin roast filtered via a chemex.

As for lunch…. if you’re looking for something quick and on the go, Yuan Yuan and I stumbled across chantonner delikatessen and absolutely loved it. Get the Jamón Serrano or the Panchetta and pair it with a freshly squeezed Colombian juice (lulo is my personal favorite). They might ask if you want it with sugar ( con azucar) or without ( sin azucar).

But if you have some time to spare, look for La Puerta Falsa, located just a block away from Bolivar Square, across from the Cathedral of Colombia. This little establishment is one of the oldest and most important gastronomic establishments in Bogotá. This 200 year old restaurant has a very unique history: The church across the street had fake doors on the outside, built to mislead attackers to the city. And since the tiny eatery didn’t have a name at the time, locals started referring it as La Puerta False (the fake door) which officially became its name in 1816.

What to order? The chocolate completo, which is Colombian style hot chocolate with melted cheese inside. It sounds completely weird but it’s definitely something to try! Ajiaco, a Colombian stew of chicken, corn and potatoes. Tip: They don’t serve ajiaco until 11am so if this is what you want to order, plan accordingly! And lastly, the tamales. OH, THE TAMALES!

Finally, for some great views of Bogotá, you’ll want to go to Monsarrate. There are a few ways to get to the top: The easiest way is to queue up for the Teleferico or Funicular here to purchase your roundtrip tickets. Once you arrive to the top, you will still have to walk a little before you reach the viewpoint. Keep in mind that the altitude is quiet high, almost 3,100 meters (or 10,300 feet) so don’t be afraid to take your time! Other than the view, there isn’t too much up at the top except for a few small cafes (both overpriced but hey, you pay for the experience…?) and some vendors hoping to sell you some souvenirs — just to level set some expectations…

The more challenging way up is via a hike. However, this path is known to be slightly dangerous, not in its height or difficulty but because many tourists and locals have actually experienced mugging along the way. My advice would be to bring a small bill to give the mugger and he/she can be on their merry way. True story: A fellow remote was cautioned about the mugging and decided to embark on the Monsarrate hike in the crack of dawn (mistake #1) alone (mistake #2), leaving his phone and wallet at home (mistake #3), thinking he would be safe (mistake #4). He was wrong. Let’s just say he had to walk home with no shoes.

El Chico

This little neighborhood is where I called home for the month. It is home to tons of little great restaurants, cafes and bars but perhaps my most favorite part of the neighborhood is Parque Virrey. Every morning on my walk to and from CrossFit Bogota, I pass by this little green oasis to find tons of people jogging, working out, socializing, and the best of all: all the puppers. I have never been in a city with so many dogs and it made my day every day.

If you do happen to come up north, make a pit stop at this popular local joint: Fulanitos. Get the Chuleta de cerdo, which comes with rice, small side salad and perfectly cooked maduro plantains, and ask for an extra saucer of their delicious hogao. This savory mix of tomatoes, onions, garlic and cilantro are sautéed until all the vegetables are soft and fragrant and often served as a condiment alongside many dishes.

Other great spots to check out for food and drinks: Canasto Picnic Bistrò, a cute little eatery great for breakfast or brunch, JULIA, for their mushroom thin crust pizza, CASA, for their fried rice with oxtail and tuna tartare, Local by Rausch, for all their starters (skip the mains), Azahar Cafe, for great food and coffee and an all day sit in, Amor Perfecto Libreria LERNER and Oma Restaurant for the coffee and work, and Les Amis Biscuit for their medialunas, or Argentinian sweet croissants.

Chapinero

Saving the best for last, Chapinero was my favorite neighborhood to visit and probably the one I would want to live in if I were to come back to Bogotá. Why? All my favorite cafes and restaurants are here!

Everyone talks about famous colombian cafe but Colombians have actually been drinking the crappiest of all coffee for the longest time: all the best coffee beans were exported, leaving only the unsellable beans for internal consumption. However, that coffee culture is changing for the better.

Visit Libertario. This artistically decorated coffee shop has tons of different table and couch set ups for a working or social coffee date, and has some of the freshest coffee in the city. I recommend the chemex house speciality.

Masa 70 is probably my favorite lunch spot in all of Bogotá. They have a great selection of sandwiches but my favorite is turkey (pavo) and I usually always get the soup of the day. Not only is it great for food but also a cozy place to get some work done with a cup of coffee and the best chocolate chip cookies in all of Bogotá (no joke).

However, if you were going to have one meal in Bogotá, it has to be at Salvo Patria. This townhouse turned restaurant is slightly on the outskirts of Chaperino and although there isn’t much to do and see nearby, it is worth the adventure. This hidden gem has persuaded both Colombians and foreigners alike that Colombian food, typically thought of as simple home-cooking, is ready to be considered a cuisine, like Japanese, Thai or Italian, just like any other countries. These chefs are constantly experimenting with different Colombian flavors and ingredients and don’t be surprised to find their menu constantly changing (weekly, at that!)

Other top favorites of mine: Chichería Demente for a great date spot and also for big groups — the pork belly and watermelon stole the show, El Pantera Taqueria for some tacos, Mesa Franca for their pork shoulder and black bean-stuffed empanadas, and La Huerta Bar for their cocktails, all concocted with Colombian fruits, vegetables and herbs.

Venturing a little outside of Bogotá…

Chía — Ah, the craziness and visually shocking and stimulating experience that is Andrés Carne de Res. This restaurant is literally in the middle of nowhere and it took us a few Uber tries before we actually found a driver willing to drive us almost an hour north of El Chico to behold this not so hidden gem. This gigantic sprawl of restaurants and bars is an absolute maze and their menu is probably 100 pages long. A lot of things are happening around you and none of it makes any sense but that’s okay! Just know that the meats is so good.

I had the wonderful privilege (or unfortunate circumstance) to visit Andres with local Colombians and bottles and bottles of tequila and aguardiente later, my memory of the establishment becomes even less clear as we dance the alcohol and meat sweats away into the morning. It was an incredibly fun and great evening but it was also the reason why I did not make it to the Paloquemao market the next morning (which I do recommend and will have to go on my next visit), as I was recovering from whatever was in the alcohol. My friends, you’ve been warned.

Zipaquirá — Often described as the “Jewel of Modern Architecture”, the Salt Cathedral draws in about 600,000 tourists every year to Zipaquirá, a mining city about 30 miles north of Bogotá. What started out as a construction of removing salt from the walls from 1815, this salt mine turned into the massive Cathedral it is known today when miners carved out small altars where workers would pray for protection each morning before heading deeper in the cave. The cathedral opened in 1995 to the public where worshippers and tourists alike can walk through the 14 small chapels of the cathedral, each representing the stations of the cross.

Personally, the cathedral felt very underwhelming. Perhaps someone with more spiritual ties to Catholicism or intellectual ties to architecture might enjoy this more, but for me, it was simply a dozen or so crosses in a very very dark cave. Personally, it was not something I would not recommend.

However, the area of Zipaquirá is very close to Suesca, known for rock climbing, hiking, outdoor adventures, nature cabins and cave climbing. So if you’re thinking of spending all that time heading up to the Salt Cathedral, might as well make it a weekend trip away from the city!

Our group took advantage of the fact that we would already be in Zipaquirá on Saturday and in Suesca the next day to rent out a cabin to celebrate Sam’s birthday. With no internet of any kind, we cooked dinner, played games and enjoyed each other’s company around the fireplace. It was such a great evening.

The next morning, we headed to Suesca for some hiking and cave climbing. I have never heard of or done cave climbing before and it’s exactly what it sounds like: climbing in caves. These caves are TINY. For the entire duration, I don’t think I was able to stand up entirely and I’m only 5'2″ and we were just army crawling the entire way. How did we even find these caves? Well, the indigenous Muisca people used these caves as a form of punishment for their criminals, leaving them in the pitch dark tiny caves for a whole week to contemplate their wrong-doings.

And at one point in the caves, our guides actually told us to shut off our head lamps and try to imagine what it would feel like to be sentenced to a week in the caves. I could not. While others felt this moment of silence relaxing and meditative, I almost had a panic attack. The whole thing freaked me out so I did what I do best: I cried.

I did not want to think that we had another hour in these caves before we saw sunlight and kept telling myself that a panic attack would do no one any good, especially myself. So I kept breathing and stopping my mind from wandering to panic mode and took it one step at a time. Luckily, the fear of not falling in the water (Reminder: I can’t swim) kept my mind occupied as I climbed my way through these tiny crevices. Man, you really need some good grip strength for this!

But alas, I made it out and have never been so happy to see daylight (Can’t you tell from this photo?). And although it was an absolutely terrifying experience, I’m really glad I did it. I now know that I actually am claustrophobic and that I never ever want to do that ever again.

But perhaps one of the most memorable experiences in Bogotá and perhaps of all Remote Year was our two-day weekend build with Techo up in the comunas in Soacha. A beautiful family of five (mom, dad and their beautiful three little girls) were in need of a new home. The father, who works in construction, was recently injured and unable to work. The mother, who collects recycling for the city, had not received her income from the government in months. One of her daughters required surgery and medical bills were piling up. And on top of all of this, they also recently took in their 16 year-old niece, who was kicked out of her home because she had gotten pregnant with her boyfriend, who has now decided to not take responsibility of their child.

Remote Year fundraised enough money to work alongside Techo to help their living situation by building a separate extension to their house. When we had our Techo orientation, the staff asked us what we think of when we say “house.” Many of us said: four walls and a roof, perhaps even multiple stories, a garage, natural lighting, furniture, separate rooms that delineate kitchen from bedroom to living room.

This family’s “house” was very different: two of their walls were simply the walls of other people’s homes, their roof was made up of collected metal scraps with bricks to hold it down. The front side of the house were slabs of broken doors with a little opening for their door. Inside, there was a tiny kitchen on the right with one toilet and on the left were bunk beds that served as bedrooms and living room.

A dozen of us set off to work on that Saturday to start digging holes to make room for twelve wooden piles in the ground as the foundation of the floor. And because electricity did not run through the neighborhood, we could only use manual tools the entire weekend. Once the holes were dug and we placed the wooden piles in the floor, we then had to make sure the measurements were exact and that they were leveled, since the entire comuna sits on a hill. This part took us the entire Saturday and a large part of Sunday.

And while their “house” looked very different than the ones we are used to, it was certainly a home. Throughout the two days, each of us interacted with the entire family, as they not only helped with the build but also kept us hydrated and well fed with lunch and snacks throughout the day, it was easy to tell that they were a beautiful, loving family and with so much hope and ambition to make a better life for their children.

We all played and sang and danced with their daughters as neighborhood kids also started to peep in to see why there were so many gringos in their comuna. During one of my breaks, all the kids circled around me, pointing to parts of their body or articles of clothing and asking me to teach them english. Thinking they’d lose concentration in a minute or so, they actually sat there for a good half hour as we repeated the same words again and again, almost to commit them to memory, and still wouldn’t let me go back to work. It humbled me. These kids have little resources and many challenges ahead but their thirst for learning touched me. For me, education was always something I felt I was entitled to. Here, and many parts of the world, education is a privilege.

Once the piles on the floor were leveled, constructing the floor, the walls and the roof of the house went by fairly smoothly and fairly quickly. And by the early evening on Sunday, we were able to enjoy the first few moments of the final product with the family. When asked what they will use this new extension to their home, they said it will be the bedroom and living room for their three daughters, niece and her new baby. Not only will the girls have a space to do their homework, play and sleep, it will also allow them to be in an enclosed space, with better air, away from the dust and dirt of their current home.

Words cannot begin to describe what a beautiful experience it was to be able to help this beautiful family.

Originally published at https://allthingslil.net on May 1, 2019.